Solo Camping, White Water Rafting, and Unique Culture: A Weekend in Taos, NM
As I got in my car to begin the drive from Denver to Taos (only 5 hours, but I’m not a road trip warrior – not when driving, at least), I felt overwhelmed with excitement. I’d heard of stories and legends, experiences and magical encounters in Taos, and I couldn’t help but feel both excited and apprehensive.
It was my first-ever solo camping trip. I felt proud, nervous, excited, a bit hesitant, and above all, hopeful. The drive was beautiful, and I was overwhelmed with the feeling – you know the one, the feeling that you’re exactly where you need to be, and everything seems to be right in the world.
The Universe affirmed this feeling by showing me the most beautiful rainbow (shaped like a rhombus – I think…geometry was never my strong suit) with mountains as its backdrop. I shed a single tear as I pulled over to pause and take in the moment.
Eventually, after driving through a few thunderstorms, taking a call with my dear friend Claire, and admiring the wild horses of New Mexico, I had made my way to Taos, New Mexico.
As I ascended up one of Taos’ mesas to my campsite, I was taken aback by the stunning scenery all around me. This was also the first of many times on this trip when I felt extremely glad I had my Subaru Forester – her AWD & lifted body was a necessity on many of Taos’ windy, rocky, high-clearance roads.
Best Solo Camping in Taos
As I arrived at my campsite, I was greeted by Don Sr., one of the stewards of the beautiful plot of land I was staying on. Don invited me to jump on the back of his ATV & he showed me around their 300 acres of land.
Immediately, Don Sr’s respect for the land was evident. He spoke about it with grace, humility and pride as he drove me through the back areas, the meadows, showed me his home, and ensured that I knew where he was in case I needed anything.
Don Jr. (Don Sr.’s son) came by shortly after to welcome me and share more about the history of the land. As I learned about the rich history of this magical land, I couldn’t help but feel extremely grateful to spend time on it. This land has been in Don’s family for about 160 years, and his 5th great grand-father saw 3 flags fly over this land during his life, the Spanish, the Mexican, and eventually, the American flag.
When asked to speak on Taos, Don eloquently said, “The history of Taos is both mesmerizing and heartbreaking all in the same breath. The light and shadows that dance across the deep gorges of the Rio Grande highlight millennia of change and reflect a profound, raw beauty that words alone fail to capture.”
As I looked around my campsite, I felt like I was home. While I set up my tent, I began feeling really excited for the night to come. The land was magnificent and I felt safely tucked away from the rest of the world. Watching the moonlit sky slowly lose its color and fade to black, I brushed my teeth & tucked myself away inside my tent, ready to face the night to come.
The First Night
I won’t lie, I was tossing and turning for the majority of the night. Being a woman, solo camping has additional risks, and those risks were prevalent both before, and even more so during my experience sleeping out (alone).
You see, my brain had run through many, but not all of the possibilities until I actually made my way into the tent. As I put the carabiner around the two zippers of the tent, I came to the realization that anyone who wanted to could easily take a knife and slice straight through the thinner-than-paper fabric of my tent, leaving me exposed, unprepared and vulnerable.
This is when my fear started to grow.
I’m typically a solid sleeper, waking only to loud noises. But this particular night, I felt as fragile as a leaf that’s just turned deep red and is about to drop from the safety of its tree – every single noise felt like a potential threat. I’ve never been much for survivalism, but this night taught me that I’m more of a ‘fight’ person than I realized.
Armed with pepper spray, bear spray, a taser, and a bear horn, I was ready for anything that was to come my way, within the tent that is. The possibility of someone slicing my tent scared me – this was the one thing I hadn’t thought of.
Although I was on private land, I was worried someone saw me drive up & get out of the car, alone. Or maybe they called someone to tell them where I was – I’m not sure, but what I do know is that I was scared.
As I got up to pee, I was ready for combat – slowly leaving my tent & turning on my extra bright flashlight and scanning the vacant fields around me, I made sure I was safe as I took 3 bathroom breaks throughout the night.
I typically only wake up once a night to pee, but it felt like the anxiety of the night shrunk my bladder three times.
As I finally awaken one final time to pee, I notice something slightly different – the sky isn’t quite as black, it’s a bit lighter…at last, the morning was coming.
Finally, as irony would have it, I finally felt safe enough to sleep as the world around me reawakened.
Taos’ “Waterfall” (El Salto del Agua Cave)
Upon my arrival, both Don Jr & Sr ensured I would have a weekend with plenty to do – they listed out recommendations faster than I could write them down, and I became more & more excited for the weekend ahead.
One of their recommendations was to head to El Salto del Agua Cave & Waterfall, a small, remote waterfall located up a gravel road. I made the (very rocky and narrow) drive up and finally arrived at the entry station, where I paid my entry fee (via Venmo!) and walked in.
I was blown away to find the area completely empty. It might have been residual fear from the prior night, but I found myself a bit anxious as I walked through the eerily quiet forest.
Slowly, I made my way to the “waterfall”. As I climbed the large rocks up to the top, I finally heard the sound of water, and genuinely felt like I was on the show Survivor – after what felt like an hour of walking (it was a 15 minute gentle stroll LOL) up to the top, I felt like I had finally made it.
As I made my way up to the top, the caves felt like they were giving me a hug. Humid, cool air brushed against my face gently and I felt a smile creep onto my face.
Entering into the caves, I looked for the water I had sworn I heard, although it was nearly impossible to find. I slowly followed the faint sound, eventually finding a tiny pool of water below one of the cliffs of the cave – I watched as water slowly trickled down through the open air, moving as though gravity was the only force it had decided to work with.
I allowed this water to gently find my hands as I held them out underneath. It felt magical in a way – it had been years since I’d been alone in nature simply playing with water. I waited as the water pooled up in my two hands, and I eventually tossed it up at my face, splashing myself with the cool, gentle nectar of Mother Earth.
Although I wouldn’t technically call this a “waterfall”, it was a beautiful spot and I would still highly recommend heading over to this area, it was isolated, quiet, and extremely peaceful. I sat in the caves, meditating and taking in the sounds, smells, and sights of solitude in nature. Being enwrapped in the caves, I felt safe once again, and I was reminded how much I missed being alone with the planet.
Fiesta De Taos
It just so happened that the weekend I had chosen to visit Taos was the same weekend as the annual Fiesta De Taos: a centuries old festival celebrating Taos’ unique history and culture.
As I drove up to the Historical Taos Plaza, I immediately noticed the festivities. Locals wearing traditional clothes, blessing one another with herbs, dancing, singing and celebrating. I walked around the plaza and even spoke to a few of the locals about the festivities.
While stopping for a quick bite to eat at a delicious local cafe, I caught word that the largest part of the festival was happening at Kit Carson Memorial Park, and made my way over.
There, the festival was more than dancing and singing in festive clothing – it was full of the amenities of a modern carnival: rides, local vendors, funnel cakes, and even games where you could win a giant stuffed animal. I loved the mix of old and new, and how the town came together to celebrate its rich, multicultural roots. There was a strong sense of community pride in the air, and I could see why this celebration had endured for so many generations.
Whitewater Rafting in Taos with Los Rios River Runners
After a night of solo camping (or rather, sleeping in my car for a little extra security), I woke up early, grabbed a breakfast burrito from a local joint, and made my way to the Los Rios River Runners meeting point at the Rio Grande Gorge visitor’s center. The drive through a gorgeous valley, with towering cliffs and endless sky, set the perfect mood for the adventure ahead.
Our guide, Nathan, welcomed us with a smile and handed out the gear—wet pants/jackets (optional, but a great idea, until you fall in & water fills them up….not saying I fell in or anything…) life jackets, and helmets. We got a quick safety briefing, but it wasn’t until we were already on the river that I realized one key detail of instruction was missing: you’re supposed to lean in when the raft hits rapids. Of course, no one mentioned this in the instructions, so when we hit our first set of really strong rapids, I went straight into the Rio Grande.
I have to say, the water was freezing. Even though it was mid-summer, the river doesn’t care—it’s cold year-round. Water rushed into my wet pants, which made things a bit more uncomfortable, but I managed to haul myself back into the raft, drenched and laughing. Another rafter nearly fell in too, but he managed to stay aboard at the last second (he knew to lean in). It was one of those moments where everything feels chaotic, but also thrilling.
Despite the unexpected dip, the trip was amazing. The river wound through stunning canyons, and Nathan kept us entertained with stories about the history of Taos—from ancient Native American civilizations to Spanish settlers. Knowing that this river had been a lifeline for so many over the centuries made the experience even more meaningful.
After we finished the trip, we were greeted with snacks, which was perfect after a cold morning on the water. We were also given the option to purchase pictures from the trip, a fun reminder of all the excitement (and my graceful fall). If you’re a beginner, the trip is friendly enough, but it helps to be in good shape. Wear water-wicking clothing and water shoes, because trust me, you will get wet—and you’ll feel that icy river water.
Reflections on a Weekend Well Spent in Taos
From the thrill of solo camping to the vibrant celebrations at Fiesta de Taos and an unexpected dip in the Rio Grande, my weekend in Taos, New Mexico, was nothing short of adventurous. I explored the historic land of a local family, hiked to a hidden waterfall, and experienced the warmth of the Taos community firsthand. Whitewater rafting with Los Rios River Runners added a splash of excitement—literally—while embracing the rich cultural tapestry of this special place. This trip reminded me of the magic that comes from embracing new experiences, especially when they don’t go quite as planned.
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